Hopetown to Treasure Cay to Marsh Harbor

Sunday, April 19, 2015.  Lisa and deb (Outbound) went shopping.  Kachina and Majestic Phoenix departed this morning.  Hopefully, we will see them again. We then went to the beach.  Outbound and October Moon are already there.  The beach here is beautiful and there are only a few people.  Fran (October Moon) gets knocked down in the surf and lost her prescription sunglasses.  We had a bunch of people looking for them to no avail. Lisa met two people (Cindy and Jean) vacationing here from Ohio, who are crafters and are on the beach looking for sea glass and other materials to make jewelry.  They have been coming here for 17 years and have rented a house.

Dinner was at the Harbor’s Edge Restaurant.  It was the most expensive restaurant we have eaten in here and the food was OK.  I had wings and a Caesar salad and wings.  Small salad and the wings are the smallest I have ever seen.  Lisa had nachos.  While they were tasty, it was the smallest portion I have ever seen.  Mike and Fran said they had only been there for lunch and the prices were more reasonable and the portions larger.  They did have live music and the view is great.

When we got ready to leave, Lisa met with Cindy and Vicki and they were going to out boat to view each others handy work.  Lisa made a necklace out of sea glass and seizing wire this afternoon that came out great.  When they got to the dingy, it was stuck under the dock (tide came in). Mike and Fran’s was stuck also.  Steve went over and freed the dingy for the girls.  Later, he gave me a ride back to Rhiannon.

Nice evening all around.

Monday, April 20, 2015. We are off the mooring at 9:30 and head to the Lighthouse Marina fuel dock.  We had called ahead and the attendant said it was empty, so off we went.  Just as we got there one of the big charter catamarans tried to cut in front of us onto the dock.  He was yelling that he needed water.  The attendant told him he would have to wait his turn and the catamaran motored off not to be seen again. We filled with fuel, water and ice and are off the dock at 10am.  It is partlyt cloudy and 85 degrees.  The wind is S to SW at 15+.  We were heading over to Great Guana, but everything we read says don’t go there if the wind is South or Southwest (no protection).  We opt for Treasure Cay with much better protection.

1:30pm, we pick up a mooring at Treasure Cay.  It is development with golf, condos, houses, timeshares, and a great beach.  It looks more like something you would see in Florida, as opposed to what we have seen so far in the Bahamas.  Outbound arrives a few minutes after we do.  Shine (Scott and Lynn) are here!  We traveled from Atlantic Highlands (Sandy Hook) to North Carolina with them in the fall of 2012.  They stopped in New Bern, NC and bought a condo.  They come by the boat to say hello.  Great to see them again!

18NM, 21.4SM today.  26°40.26’N  77°16.93’W

Jim and Judy Foster called and they are going to come for a visit.  We traveled with them our first year heading south (Tug-a-Long).  Last year they came for a visit in Marathon.  They will fly into Marsh Harbor on Saturday.

Tuesday, April 21, 2015. Wind out of the SW, 85 degrees, very humid, looks like rain.  We walked over to the beach and met up with Scott and Lynn and had a late lunch.  Afterward, we are back at the boat for the rain and are trying to find some boat insurance that will allow us to leave the boat in Florida at a reasonable price.  A catamaran comes in with 19 people on boat – 4 adults and 15 scouts.  They are sailing for a week.  Neat experience for them.  They are all from the Boston area. Dinner with Outbound at Tipsy’s (the bar at the pool).  Pizza and burgers.  Food was OK. We gave Steve and Deb a ride in as they are having fuel line issues with the outboard on their dingy.  Another spare to add to the list (hose from the tank to the outboard). Still overcast and looking like rain.  Wind has died completely. Rain overnight.

Wednesday, April 22, 2015.  Outbound left for Green Turtle today.  October Moon is leaving from Hopetown for Green Turtle.  We heard from Tintean, who we traveled with north last year and they are in Green Turtle.  Popular place.  Lisa and I went shelling this morning and got quite a nice collection of small sand dollars and some other shells suitable for making jewelry.  We had dinner at Coco’s on the beach and when we left we forgot the shells.  When Lisa went back to get them, they were gone.  Could not have been 5 minutes.

At 6pm, low tide, we took the dingy up the creek and then walked over to the beach and looked for more shells.  Found quite a few sand dollars and others.  There was also a guy throwing food to flying seagulls, hundreds came! Dinner on board and rain again over night.

Thursday, April 23, 2015. 10am, we drop the mooring at head for Marsh Harbor, PC 80 degrees, wind NE @ 10.  1pm, our macerator for the rear holding tank is not working.  This is the unit that grinds up the waste and pumps it over board when we are at sea.  1:30pm we are on the dock at Harbor View Marina in Marsh Harbor. 

After checking out the macerator pump, one of the screws that holds the pump to the motor is sheared off.  It either happened when the yard in Canada installed the pump or came from the factor that way.  It is also leaking.  I was able to tighten up the other three screws and the pump seems to work.  I will call Jim Foster and have him add a new pump to the list of spares he is bringing on Saturday.

We went to Snappa’s for dinner.  Lisa had fish and I had a chicken kabob.  Both good.  After dinner we took a walk to see a bit of the town.  Not a lot close by the marina (other than restaurants and marinas), but we did find a place to buy ice cream!

Friday, April 24, 2015. Today Lisa spent the day cleaning the interior of the boat and re-storing items that we had taken out, but could be stored so there will be more room when our guests arrive tomorrow.  I went on errands – walked to the hardware store – there are three large ones here, the bank, the liquor store and the grocery (Maxwell’s – it is the largest and best stocked we have seen since coming to the Bahamas). Took a cab back to the marina.

Marsh Harbor is a city and there are lots of cars and traffic.  It is the largest place we have been in the Bahamas (we by-passed Nassau). There is one main road where everything is located and would remind you a bit of Marathon.

Saturday, April 25, 2015. This morning we gave the boat a bath and filled the water tanks.  Jim and Judy Foster arrive this afternoon and then we will head over to Great Guana.

Click on this link to see the latest pictures.

Black Point to Hopetown

Black Point North

Sunday, April 5, 2015. Easter.  We spent Sunday afternoon looking for another conch shell which could be made into a horn.  Greenstone has 4 on board – a bass, a baritone, a tenor and a soprano (sound based on the size of the horn).  We found a nice one, but it will have to be really cleaned.  Dinner at Scorpios’s with Down Time – hamburgers – been a while since we had one of these.  There is supposed to be a gospel concert at the school across from Scorpio’s, but it is late starting and it is looking like rain, so we head be to the boats.

Lady Francis (the “mail” boat) came in and has been here all week-end.  Someone said the captain came home for Easter.

Monday, April 6, 2015.  Rain overnight and the wind gusting from the south.  Pretty comfortable on the anchor where we are.  8am, rain squalls continue, wind S @ 15-20.  9:30 am, squalls pass to the north and the sun is out.  Anchor up, PC, 75 degrees.  Wind SE @ 15.  We are headed to Cambridge Key – sailing – making 6+ knots with just the head sail.

11am another rain squall.  The wind hits 25 knots and we are moving along at 7-8 knots.  We decide to go around the north side of Bell Island to Cambridge Key.  There is on part of the passage that is very narrow, but otherwise it is OK.  There is quite a complex on Bell Island.  It is owned by Aga Kahn, a Pakistani religious leader.  There is a hotel, 3 large houses, and a support complex that looks like 3 large buildings that look like airplane hangers, and a large dock, water processing plant, sewage plant and power station.  Lade Francis is there as we pass by unloading supplies.

2pm we anchor at the south end of Cambridge Key. Greenstone, Saber Tooth and Liesel are here. Rain squalls are still moving through.  At 7pm, we go over to Greenstone for a “movie night” James Bond Sky Fall.  Good James Bond flick.  10pm, we are back at the boat, and it rains again overnight.

Tuesday, April 7, 2015.  We want to dingy across the “cut” to the north end of Compass Cay to Rachel’s Bubble Bath (a pool where the surge from the waves comes up through the porus rocks like a bubble bath) and to Rocky Dundas (where there are caves to explore).  The wind and waves from these high winds make crossing the cut problematic so we may skip those adventures – save them for another trip.  The squalls are still moving through and the wind looks like it will hang around at least another couple of days.

Lisa went snorkeling this morning with Greenstone and Saber Tooth.  In the afternoon, we walk across the south end of Cambridge Cay to Honeymoon Beach with John and Nora (Saber Tooth).  The Coral Gardens are here, which are excellent for snorkeling. However, today it is much too rough.  As we start back across the island, a squall catches us and we are all soaked by the time we get back to the dingys and then back to the boats.  Dinner on board this evening.

Wednesday, April 8, 2015.  We lift the anchor at 8:55am.  Saber Tooth and Greenstone have already departed heading to Warderick Wells.  We follow.  It is sunny, wind SE 10-15.  It is 2 hours before high tide and there is 9 feet of water at Kiss Rock – the shallow spot in the channel at the south entrance to Cambridge Key anchorage.  It is called Kiss Rock because the shallow spot is right next to a small rocky island and many boats “kiss” the bottom here.

We are sailing with the head sail only, making 6+ knots all the way to Warderick.

At 11:10am we are on mooring E14 in the south mooring field.  Down Time, Saber Tooth and Greenstone are already here.  Lots of boats here today.  Lots of charter boats with lots of people on board – all on the beach or walking around Warderick – looks like South Beach, Miami.  After checking in at the Ranger Station, we dingy over to say hello to Greenstone and Saber Tooth and then head to the south end of the island to walk over to the “Pirates Lair”.  There is another anchorage on the east side of the island called Hogs Cay.  It is narrow and almost invisible from  Exuma Sound.  Pirates used to hide in here and wait on ships coming out of the cut to ambush them.  Someone even marked the pirate camp with a large black “X” in the beach. It is actually a beautiful spot, secluded, safe and has a beautiful beach.  Maybe next time we will stay here instead of on the other side of the island.

We found a conch horn in the surf that someone had started, but not finished.  It is about the same size as the one Roger (Down Time) made for Lisa, so we will finish it and add it to the collection.

Dinner on Board with Saber Tooth,  Down Time came over for dessert (Lisa made rice pudding and Nora made her cookies) – and then a game of Mexican Train.

We heard Kachina today on the radio, and then they called on the phone, which surprise, surprise, actually connected.  Phone and internet service are almost non-existent in Exuma Park.  Everywhere else in the Bahamas, we have ,so far, had at least some minimal service.  Kachina is at Norman’s Cay heading to Nassau, and then over to the Abacos overnight on Saturday.  Hopefully, we will catch up with them again.

Thursday, April 9, 2015.  Dropped the mooring at 9:40am.  Partly Cloudy, wind SE @ 10-15.  1:30pm we pick up a mooring at Shroud Cay.  We managed to sail the whole way. Great!  I don’t know why 150 motor yachts want to be on a mooring designed for a 65 foot boat, but many do.  We just watched one pick up the mooring with the crewman hanging upside down from the bow railing with a boat hook to reach it.  Fun to watch!  Non-sense.

Lisa and I went for a dingy ride.  The guide book says only try to do the mangrove creeks at high tide.  The whole center of the island is mangroves.  Now we know why.  I am sure it is very shallow in the mangroves, but even outside as we toured around the island, there are many places that are not passable at low tide.  We went around the north end of the island to an un-named beach.  It was a beautiful spot – limestone rock about 10 feet high bordering a beautiful beach.  One of the prettiest we have seen.  Back to the boat for sunset and dinner on board.

Friday, April 10, 2015. We dingy across the island through the north river.  We started at 10am, mid-tide.  The “river” comes out on the east side of the island at a lovely little beach.  We then climbed the hill to “Camp Driftwood”, which is not a camp, but was at one time.  Lovely spot where you can see both sides of the island.  As we came out of the “river” on the west side of the island, we noticed a large power boat headed up the “creek” nearest Rhiannon.  The guide book says no motorized vessels except in the most northern “river”, but when we motored over, there is a sign saying 3mph speed limit and no jet skis.  Sure enough we are passed by 2 jet skis going full throttle.  This creek actually runs into the “river”, but also ends on the east side of the island at a “cul-de-sac” where you can walk over to yet another beach – nice.  We finally get back to Rhiannon at 2 pm.  Too much sun!  Saber Tooth and Greenstone are here and soon we see then coming from the north “river” in their dingys.  We get to visit with them for a bit.

Saturday, April 11, 2015.  7:40am, we drop the mooring.  Wind SE 10-15, but it was much stronger overnight.  Sunny, 75 degrees.  Saber Tooth and Greenstone have already departed for Cape Eleuthera and we can see them in the distance.  We are headed for Current Cut on the NW corner of Eleuthera.  8am fore sail out – making 6 knots.

Kachina is in Nassau. Down Time has decided to stay in the Exumas for a while.  Adagio is in Black Point and is meeting Jen’s parents in Staniel Cay on the 21^st for her birthday and Joellen’s.

2:30pm.  The wind dies and we motor sail.  The tack of the main is loose (again), so we tie it down.  We are going to have to come up with a better solution. Somewhere about where we are now, we leave the Exumas and are back in Eleuthera.

4pm, we furl the main.  Motoring, no wind, sunny 85 degrees.  The seas here at the top end of Exuma Sound are rolly.

5pm, we turn into Current Cut.  The tide is with us, so an easy transit.  This is a bit like Wood’s Hole, rocky, lots of current, and you don’t want to go through against the current if you don’t absolutely have to.

5:15pm, we are anchored at North Beach on the west side of Current Cut.  Calm here, no current either. 

To our west is a catamaran that is low in the water and being towed toward Spanish Wells.  Not good.

58NM, 70SM today. 25°24.75’N  076°47.37’W

Rain clouds gathering at sunset.

Sunday April 12, 2015. Showers overnight.  Anchorage is calm.  We are on the west side of Current Cut Settlement and there are some nice houses here along the beach.  We have breakfast and the anchor is up at 10am.  Sunny 80 degrees, wind SE @ 5-10.  Noon, Partly Cloudy, some look like they contain rain.  As we are entering Spanish Wells, we see the catamaran again, still being towed and very low in the water.  It looks like it is being towed to shallow water. 

At 1:30pm we meet Treadwell (Dockmaster) on the dock at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven.  The cruising guide says the marina is being re-constructed, but what is being built is a restaurant and some hotel units, which look like they will be very nice when completed – sort of like those at Staniel Cay.  15NM, 18SM today.  25°32.46’N  076°45.37’W.

It is Sunday and everything except the marinas and the restaurants are closed. We have a late lunch at the Shipyard, a new restaurant at the far east end of the island, very nice.  The food and the view were good. We rented a golf cart and toured the island, as well as Russell Island, which is connected by a bridge.  Spanish Wells is a pretty town.  Russell Island is more rural.

We had dessert for dinner at Anchor Snacks – excellent apple pie ala mode.

Monday April 13, 2015. We made use of the golf cart to run errands – The Ponderosa Shell Shop (Delroy Sweeting) – third generation – bought a beautiful conch horn that his grandfather still makes.  Delroy collects license plates from all over the Bahamas, so if you are somewhere and find one, he will appreciate it.  Pinders Marine and Hardware for epoxy, a plug for the dingy and other stuff they didn’t have.  Allisha was very helpful.  Dave’s Dive Shop for charcoal for the head vent – none, but they did have fresh eggs.  Then the bank, grocery (a good one here), propane, gas, diesel, water.  We had lunch at Buddha’s 9no conch salad – have to come back after 2pm.  Used to be a small “snack shack” in a converted school bus, and then he managed to get a license to sell liquor and open a bar (Spanish Wells used to be dry).  His business now takes up what used to be his whole back yard.  The availability of liquor on the island spawned the Shipyard restaurant and the one being built at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven.  We went back for dinner and Lisa got her conch salad.  Our waitress was Allisha (from Pinders Marine).

The people at the Spanish Wells Yacht Haven have been very helpful.  Treadwell is the dockmaster as went out of his way for whatever we needed.  Angie is the secretary, shes about 80, and has been friendly and spent time telling Lisa a bit of the island.

The catamaran that was having issues actually went aground on the east side of Current Island.  They had anchored overnight there (on the lee shore), their anchor drug, and they went aground stern first onto the rocks.  The couple was rescued by the mail boat.  The Catamaran is now sitting on the “lift” at R&B Marine.  The rudders and props and shafts are gone.  There are now big patches in both hulls.  While at dinner at Buddhas, we saw a couple at the next table we recognized from Lorraine’s in Black Point.  Turns out it is their catamaran!  They have not seen the boat since they were rescued.  They said it was seriously taking on water when they left the boat.

Tuesday, April 14, 2015.  We are off the dock at 7:30am with the assistance of Dennis for the next slip.  He and Alli are care taking a Bahamian Smack that has been completely re-done.  Beautiful!  No issues getting out of the convoluted channel heading north. Sunny, 75 degrees, the wind is East at 15-20 and there are big rollers (Kachina warned us) – we are crossing a stretch of the North Atlantic and the water here is 9000 feet deep!

10am - wind has lessened, not as rough, but still those big ocean rollers.

3pm – the tachometer has stopped working.  We were warned that this might happen with the solar panels, as the batteries can get “over-charged”, causing the alternator to shut down.  The tachometer actually runs off alternator.

3:30pm – the engine is stalling.  The last time this happened, we finally had to have the fuel “polished” and the fuel tank cleaned. 

4:14pm – we are through Little Harbor Cut and the anchor is down at Lynyard Cay.  Sunny, 85 degrees, wind E@10-15.

55 NM, 66SM today.  26°21.81’N 076°59.12’W

Wednesday, April 15, 2015.  Tax Day.  Sunny, wind SSE 15+.  Rain clouds to the west of us.Boat chores this morning.  Now that the batteries have been used all night, the tachometer is again working, as the alternator is putting out electricity.  We do have a spre alternator on board, if needed.  We changed the primary fuel filter (Racor) and the secondary (on the engine).  Hopefully, that will “cure” the engine stalling. We also cleaned out the A/C water strainer, as the A/C is complaining.  The generator now won’t start, and we find a lead to the fuel pump that has disconnected itself.  Rough seas causing all this?

We raise the anchor at 12:50pm and head over to Tilloo Pond.  Adagio has told us there are lots of sea turtles there.  We arrive at 2pm, and get an anchor down.  It is a bit choppy, and we decide to wait for the morning to go snorkeling.  We can still see heavy rain to the west, but it doesn't get here.

Thursday, April 16, 2015.  Cloudy at sunrise, but the clouds are dissipating.  Wind SSE@10.  This morning we went snorkeling at Tilloo Pond.  On the way in to the pond, we saw four sea turtles.  Once inside the pond, we “dingy drift”  (hang on to the dingy and snorkel) the entire length of the pond and did not see one turtle.  The water in the pond is murky. Once back to the boat, we showered on the stern and worked on getting this blog updated.

At 2pm, we lift the anchor and head toward Hopetown.  The water is very skinny there and we plan to get through that water at mid-tide with the tide rising.  It is now sunny, 80 degrees, the wind SE@5.  We can see rain in the distance and it looks like we are sailing straight toward it.  It is a convoluted course to get there, around a couple of large sand banks, and as we go, the rain seems to be passing to our north.  We get a couple of sprinkles, but that’s all.  At 4:30, the skies have cleared and as we approach Hopetown, we see Majestic Phoenix anchored.  We call on the VHF and find out they just arrived from Nassau.  Once inside the harbor, we see Kachina on a mooring.  There is no place to anchor here, but lots of moorings and we find one.  Capt. Jack (owns a restaurant of the same name) was going to hold one of his for us, but none came available.  11NM 13.2SM today.  26°32.25’N  076°57.52’W

Hopetown is a beautiful spot.  It reminds one of New England, small quaint wood houses like you would see in Oak Bluffs on the Vineyard.  We meet Phil and Joanne from Majestic Phoenix and Kachina at Capt. Jacks for dinner.  Very nice time.  Trivia night.  Some of the questions were very obscure.  Afterward, we went to Munchies for ice cream.  The whole town closes up at 7pm, except for the restaurants, and even those are clearing out.

Friday, April 17, 2015.  We walk over to the beach (about 150 feet from the dingy dock) and spend some time walking the beautiful beach.  Benny found another sea bean (a sea heart) and gave it to Johanne.  If you have one on your boat, it is supposed to keep it from sinking - one more boat safe!  Then it's on the Capt. Jack's for refreshment. At 4:30, we all met at the light house to climb the 102 steps to the top, then back to the boat to prepare for tonight's pot luck dinner on-board Kachina.

Click this link for more info on Hopetown and the Lighthouse.

Lisa made her carrot, cucumber and onion salad with Chinese sauce - mmmm good.  The dinner was nice, but the rains came, so everyone headed home relatively early.

Saturday, April 18, 2015. This morning, our cockpit is full of people and there are 6 dingys tied to our stern.  Outbound (Steve and Deb) have arrived.  Phil (Majestic Phoenix) stops by to see if we want to rent a golf cart and go exploring, Mike and Fran (October Moon, who we met in Vero Beach 2 years ago) stop by, Child's Play (Dan and Judy, Marshfield, MA) also stop by too.  So does Kachina (on their way to rent bicycles).

Later, around noon, we rented a golf cart with Majestic Phoenix (Phil, Johanne and Cricket) and drove to the south end of the island to Tahiti Beach.  Some beautiful scenery and homes along the way, but the beach was just OK.  The rains came again and we drove the golf cart under one of the newly constructed houses to wait it out.  Then on to On Da Beach for liquid refreshment.  We managed to get back to the boat before the rain started again.  Dinner was with Outbound (Steve and Deb) and October Moon (Mike and Fran), at the Hopetown Inn and Marina. Very nice evening.  We are moored just across the channel from the Harbor Edge Restaurant.  Tonight they have a live band.  Music is good.

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Exumas

Warderick Wells.

Click on this link for more information on the Exumas and maps http://www.my-bahamas-travel.com/bahamasexumas.html

Saturday, March 14, 2015.  8am, winds calm, sunny and 75 degrees.  We checked our email, paid the bill at the marina, and were off the dock at 9:45am. Once outside the marina protection, it was very rolly. Wind ESE @ 15.  Noon, wind SSE @ 15-20, sunny 85 degrees.  The water is 4000 feet deep here.  1pm wind SSE 20-25.  Big Rollers – maybe 10 feet!  Very rough!  Making 7 knots – the water comes up from 4000 feet to 35 feet as we approach the cut to Warderick Wells. We saw a pod of dolphins as they chased the boat – they are only 3 or 4 feet long – different species than we are used to seeing.   There is no room in the northern anchorage – we asked for the waiting list.  At 4pm picked up mooring E-10 @ Emerald Rock anchorage in 10 feet of water.  35NM  42SM.  24°23.06’ 076°37.56’

At 7:15pm, we watch the sunset and and saw the “green flash” as the sun goes down.  In all the years of traveling in the Keys and now the Bahamas, this is the first time!  It is actually more of an “aurora” than a “flash”.  Still cool to finally see it!

For reference, we are 9 miles farther south than Key West and 207 miles east of Miami.

Sunday, March 15, 2015.  9am We hear on the radio that we have been assigned a mooring in the north mooring field, so we drop the one we are on and head over there – it is about 5 miles.  We are close to the rangers’ station, and go ashore to register.  We went with Kachina and some other boats to the “Rangers Garden” to snorkel, but misjudged the tide so the current was a bit strong.  We did see lots of coral and fish, plus several large eagle rays and a black tipped shark.

There were cocktails on the beach at sunset, but there is land between the sea and the sky, so no green flash!

The only mammals on Warderick Wells are “Hutia” that come out looking for food at sunset.  They look like nutria, or big furry rats (see pictures).  The north end of the island is closed because of nesting birds, but word has it these rodents are decimating the nests.

Monday, March 16, 2015.  Today we made the pilgrimage up to Boo Boo Hill with Kachina (John and Joanne) and Majestic Phoenix (Phillip and Joanna).  At the top os Boo Boo Hill is a huge pile of driftwood – no not a bonfire, but each piece of wood has the name of a boat who visited here and the date – see pictures.  Afterward, we swam from the boat to the huge sandbar in the middle of the anchorage.  Dinner was hamburgers on Majestic Phoenix and then movie night.  We were joined by Kachina and Neverland (Jim and Cindy).  The movie was really bad, but a good time was had by all.

Tuesday, March 17, 2015. Saint Patrick’s Day. Several boats left today.  Neverland and Kachina heading south (Kachina to pick up visitors at Staniel Key), Majestic Phoenix to Nassau to pick up family visitors.  We met Vesper Light (Dodd and Becca and crewman Dennis) just back fron 4 years in the Caribbean, Over Budget (JW and Jeremy) and Double Wide (Clark and Michelle and Tug Boat (Mini-schnauzer) and Sailor (Yorky). 

Lisa made up a nice sign for Rhiannon out of driftwood, carved and painted with finger nail polish, and we took it up Boo Boo Hill and reverently placed it there for posterity.  We also took a long dingy ride around the anchorage.  We managed to get the internet at the ranger station and were able to send out a few emails.  No phone service here.

Click here for pictures of Warderick Wells

Staniel Key and Big Majors Spot

Wednesday, March 18, 2015.  We dropped the mooring at 9am.  Partly cloudy, 75 degrees, rain on the horizon.  Wind SW 10-15.  We decide to tow the dingy, but we can only do about 5 knots to keep the dingy stable.  11am cloudy, wind SW 10-15.  Noon – rain finally passed by with only a couple of sprinkles.  Noon sunny and wind SW @ 10. 80 degrees.

1pm, anchor down @ Big Major Spot just north of Staniel Key.  Green Stone, Saber Tooth, Pearl, Neverland and about 20 others here.  10 LARGE yachts anchored here as well.  As we get the anchor down, we see a large Nerf Shark swim by the boat.  20NM 24SM today.

24°11.10’N  076°27.54’W

John (Saber Tooth) comes by and let’s us know that there will be a birthday party for Connie (Summer of 42) on the “Pirate Beach” this evening.  Pearl is also on the radio and it looks like there will be two parties on the beach this evening, as it is Val’s (Pearl) birthday also.  We make our cheese spread (recipe below) and arrive at the beach at the designated hour.  There are indeed two parties.  We know folks at both, and there are lots of people we do not know.  Music is provided, a bon fire, and a good time was had by all – that is, until the no-seeums came out.  At sunset, there were many people with conch horns to blow.  A nice time was had by all.

Thursday, March 19, 2015.  Sunny, 85 degrees, no wind. Today, we visited with Saber Tooth and went to the “pig beach”, where “wild” pigs roam.  Everyone that visits feeds them and rumor has it someone does so regularly.  There are also goats and chickens (noisy roosters).  The animals will come right up to your dingy looking for food.

We snorkeled at Thunderball Grotto, which is a cave you can swim through.  It has holes in the ceiling that let in sunlight – beautiful.  You have to do this a low slack tide as the current can be quite strong. Lots of boats and people, but very nice.  We swam all around the little island and saw rays, a shark and lots of coral and colorful fish.  We then dingyed to the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and had refreshments with Kachina and others.  Bruce (Island Time) and Boudreau (golden retriever) are also here.  We have not seen them since Bimini.

Friday, March 20, 2015. Sunny, 80 degrees, wind SE @ 10. Today we spent doing boat chores.  I dingy into town to fill jerry cans (water, diesel, gasoline) – took a couple of trips.  Lisa worked on cleaning the bottom of the boat and defrosted both refrigerators.  We are sitting in water that is 90 degrees and the refrigerators work had to keep stuff cold.

Saturday, March 21, 2015.  Today was my Dad’s birthday.  Sunny, 80 degrees, wind SE @ 10. We walked the town.  Tried to go to the Purple restaurant on the beach for lunch, but it was closed.  We went to the Blue and the Pink grocer’s and bought some fresh vegies and apples.  You can get fresh produce in most of the Bahamas, although you may not get exactly what you are looking for.  There seems to be plenty of meat in the stores also, although it is all frozen.  We wound up having a late lunch/ early dinner at the Yacht Club (grouper and conch fritters).  The food was very good and these dishes were not expensive.

Black Point

Sunday, March 22, 2015.  We made a quick trip into the pink grocery to get more fruit.  We weigh the anchor at 2pm.  Partly sunny, 80 degrees, wind S@10.  We have the main up, but have to motor sail south to Black Point (Great Guana Cay).  We hear Saber Tooth on the radio. They are at Bitter Guana Key (not as far south as we plan to go).  We have the anchor down at 4:15pm at Black Point Settlemet.  Le Second (Patrick, Julie, Damien, Mary Lou and Nicholas) are here, as well as Island Time, Jancris and about 20 other boats.  14 NM  17SM.  24°06.00’N  076°24.10’W

Every other Sunday Lorraine’s Restaurant has a Cruiser’s BBQ Buffet, and today is the day!  We call and get on the list for dinner at 6pm. The food was great and there were about 25 others there.  Nice evening. 

Lorraine’s Mom bakes bread, so we ordered 3 loaves to be picked up tomorrow (wheat, cinnamon, coconut).

Monday, March 23, 2015.  Heavy rain overnight, nice to get some of the sail off the boat, but the wind has shifted to the SW and we have 3 footers coming through the anchorage.  Bouncy, bouncy! Sunny and a bit cooler with the wind howling.

There seems to be two main reasons people stop at Black Point.  One is Lorraine’s and the other is Rockside Laundry.  It is run by Ida Patton and is a big, clean laundromat (about 12 each washers and dryers).  So, today we did laundry and Benny got a haircut (another service of Miss Ida).  We walked to the ocean side of the island and looked for sea beans but did not find any.  This is becoming a quest and we have not found any yet.  We picked up the bread we ordered from Lorraine’s Mom – she live just behind the restaurant and had lunch at Lorraine’s – grouper fingers – yum! 

We had dinner aboard Le Second (Patrick, Julie, Nicholas, Marilou and Damien).  Julie made lobster and pasta from lobster caught by Patrick and we brought shrimp (from the freezer).  Very nice dinner.

Cambridge Key

Tuesday, March 24, 2015.  Another beautiful day, sunny, 80 degrees and the wind has died down and therefore, so have the waves.  We haul our trash ashore and het water in the jerry cans at the public faucet (2 trips - water is heavy).  We go to Adderley’s market and they still have a few fresh vegies (melon, tomatoes, red peppers).  Lisa bought a straw woven beach bag made by Mrs. Adderley (Lillian).  Beautiful. 

12:30, anchor up, wind SW @ 10-15, sunny, 80 degrees.  4pm, anchor down at Cambridge Key.  No mooring available tonight.  Kachina, Greenstone, Saber Tooth, Down Time (Roger and Connie – met them in St. Augustine) are here.  John (Saber Tooth) comes over with his glass bottom bucket to check the set of our anchor.  We also check the area behind us so we can let out more scope. We are anchored in 20 feet.  Lots of coral, very pretty.

There are cocktails on the beach at 5:30, but we elect to pass tonight.  One of the issues with these “sundowners” is that you really never get to eat supper.

20.5 NM  24.5SM today.  24°18.26’N  076°32.43’W

Clink here for pictures of Cambridge Cay

Wednesday, March 25, 2015. Sunny, wind SE 15, 80 degrees.  Another beautiful day.  We occupy a mooring as some boats move on.  We venture north a bit in the dingy to the “Sea Aquarium”, which is a coral formation with LOTS of coral and fish.  It is beautiful, but there are lots of people here, the mega yachts sending there “dingys” loaded with people and go-pro cameras.  We dingy around the “river” at the north end of O’Briens Cay and then over to Soldier Cay (privately owned) and then to Little Hall Pond Cay, which is one of two islands owned by Johnny Depp.  There is a yurt and a bunch od platform tents on the beach that are left from his wedding.  There is a sunken plane (looks like a Cessna) we snorkel on at the south end of that island and then back to the boat.

At 4pm, Down Time and Saber Tooth come to the boat for Mexican Train, and then we all go for a “dingy drift” to harass the other boats in the anchorage.  Silly, but great fun.  Actually, almost no booze involved.  Nice day.  Tired tonight.

Thursday, March 26, 2015.  Sunny, Wind S@10. Chris Parker (weather guru on SSB) is predicting a frontal passage and squalls, so we elect to stay here.  There are few spots in the Exumas with protection from wind in every direction.

There are 4 little islands just to the west of the anchorage and today we snorkel there.  There are beautiful coral reefs, fish and turtles to see.  Very nice.  In the afternoon, we dingy to “mesmaria beach”, just south of here, and hang out with a bunch of other boats – beautiful sand and water.

Outbound (Deb and Steve) came in today.  Great to see them – last time was at No Name Harbor in Miami.  We have them over for dinner to catch up.

Kachina left today to head over to Staniel Key to drop off their guests who are flying out.

Friday, March 27, 2015. It is sunny, and the wind is starting to build.  We are supposed to get squalls tonight and the clouds and wind are getting stronger.  We go ashore at the beach closest to us with Saber Tooth, Outbound and Down Time and walk across the island to the ocean side.  Nice beach there, but again, we find no sea beans.  We walk north along the ridge of the island and take in some beautiful, rugged, scenery.  It is a long walk, and it is 2pm by the time we get back to the boat.  Onward has arranged a beach bocce ball tournament for 5 pm and about 8 boats show up.  At 6:30, Joe (organizer, Onward) declared everyone a winner and we left the beach before the no-seeums took over.  We stopped by Down Time for a beer on the way back to the boat, and then back to the boat for dinner and to bed.

At midnight, we see a lot of lightening on the northern and western horizon, and get everything “battened down”.  A 3am the rain, wind and lightening arrive.  Lots of each.  Glad we are tucked in safely here.

Saturday, March 28, 2015.  The wind has died down considerably, but it would still be pretty uncomfortable in an unprotected anchorage.  It is a bit cooler and cloudy.  Lisa took the dingy to go visiting this morning.  Last night we brought to dingy gas tank aboard to refill it and she took off without it this morning.  Needless to say, she didn’t get far.  John (Saber Tooth) rescued her. Saber Tooth and Greenstone leave to take folks to the airport at Staniel Key.  Hopefully, we will run into them again soon.

A 130 foot motor yacht has apparently run aground at Big Major.  We don’t know all the details, but the short of it is that it was on the beach during the high winds.  Not sure why they did not have a watch posted on a crewed vessel that large, but apparently not.

Cambridge Key to Big Majors Spot

Sunday, March 29, 2015.  9:30am we drop the mooring at Cambridge Cay.  It is cloudy and cool, 72 degrees, wind NE 15-20.   Good day to go south.  The wind was out of the east all night and the current through here runs north and south.  While were safe enough, we were lying sideways to the waves generated by the wind and the current.  Very rolly. Down Time is leaving too and gives us depth readings as they head out the south entrance to this anchorage, especially by Kiss Rock – very narrow channel and very shallow.  We never saw less than 7 feet as we stayed about 50 feet off Kiss.  Outbound is leaving also and follows us out.  Onward calls on the radio with more advice/information about the south entrance.  Nice to have help.  We put up the sails and were able to sail all the way to Big Major Spot.  20 NM, 24SM. 

24°11.10’N  076°27.54’W

In in the evening we had Outbound, Saber Tooth and Down Time over to play Mexican Train.  A good time was had by all. 

Monday, March 30, 2015.  Today we did boat chores We also saw Le Second again.  They are headed north.  Hopefully, our paths will cross again.  We went over to Down Time to make horns out of a couple of the conch shells we collected at Bimini.  One of them had a chamber that was completely closed, so was unsuitable as a horn.  The second one (Lisa's) came out great. Everyone met at Staniel Cay Yacht Club for a late lunch, early dinner (Greenstone and new guests, Saber Tooth, Kachina and guests, Outbound, Down Time and us).  A great time was had by all!

Big Majors Spot to Black Point

Tuesday, March 31, 2015.  Anchor up at 8:30am.  Wind NE 10-15.  Cool, 72 degrees, sunny. 10:45am, anchor down at Black Point.  5NM  6SM.  24°05.80’N  076°24.30’W

In the afternoon, we did laundry, took showers, had conch fritters (they prepare them at the laundry - $1 for 5).  Afterwards, we went with Saber Tooth to the creek at the north end of the island to look for sea beans.  Did not find any, but did find a boat hard aground.  The boat is Cimarron, and the last time we saw this boat was in Marathon last spring.  The guy who owns it had married, and the lady had her own boat – and they were rafted together at the north end of Boot Key Harbor.  The current story with Cimarron is that the Bahamian Defense Force handcuffed him and took him away – no one knows why – and the boat went aground in the creek during the most recent storm.

A bunch of people went to Scorpios’ for happy hour, but we missed that.  When we and Saber Tooth finally got there it was over but every one was still there (Kachina, Green Stone (and guests) , Outbound, Down Time.  Soon after, everyone was headed out to dinner.  We wound up at DeShamon’s for pizza with Kachina and Saber Tooth.  It took forever (longer than usual even for the Bahamas – they lost our order, then when it showed up, it was 2 pizzas instead of 3 – and it was just OK).  Still an enjoyable evening.

Click here for pictures of the two stops at Big Majors and Staniel Cay

Black Point to White Point

Wednesday, April 1, 2015.  We went ashore to run some errands (trash, water, post office, ice grocery).  Lisa was able to visit with Mrs. Adderley for a bit.  The local children are out of school today and playing April Fool’s jokes on everyone (your can is leaking water, your bag has a hole in it, your money fell out of your pocket, etc.).  Kachina is starting back north today, we hope to see them again.  Outbound is headed to Georgetown.

It is a beautiful day, sunny, 80 degrees, no clouds, wind SE @ 10.  We pull the anchor at noon and head 5 miles south to White Point.  Beautiful beach and anchorage.  Saber Tooth, Greenstone and Down Time are here.  24°02.11’N  076°22.31’W

At sunset, there is a bonfire on the beach.  Very nice.  Attending were Rhiannon, Saber Tooth, Greenstone (and guests) and Leisel.

Thursday, April 2, 2015.  The wind has picked up considerably and is out of the SE, which is causing “rollers” to come into the anchorage from the south.  The wind is supposed to swing more northerly later in the day, which should make this anchorage more comfortable.  It is sunny and 80 degrees.

We head to shore to hike across the island at Hetty’s Land.  There are some remains of houses/buildings inland and we assume this was once owned and farmed by Hetty.  The hike across the island is interesting, first there is sandy flatland, then an almost dry “lake”, then rocky hills (at the coast).  We are here with Greenstone and Saber Tooth to search for Sea Beans.  Sea Beans are seeds that wash ashore.  They are dropped by trees in the Amazon, are washed out to sea, and eventually make it to the Bahamas and Florida.  Greenstone has found them in this area previously.  There is tons of junk washed up on this shore, and as luck would have it we find three different kinds of beans (see pictures).  No hamburger beans tho’.  These are about the size of a quarter and are shaped like a hamburger.  The top and bottom are lighter than the middle – like a hamburger in a bun – hence the name.  We did find four “Lucky Beans” (aka Sea Hearts, Columbus Bean), 2 Starnut Palm and 1 Laurelwood.

The wind has built up a bit more and as we get back to the boat, we are hoping it will change direction as promised.

Click here for pictures of White Point.

Black Point #3

Friday, April 3, 2015.  The wind did not change direction overnight and we rolled side to side most of the night.  Not the best.  Today it is sunny snd 80 degrees and the wind is still blowing 18 out of the SE and we decide to head back to Black Point.  We are as far south as we will go on this trip.  We are 205 nautical miles east of Miami, 91 nautical miles south of Key West and 1198 nautical miles from Meredith, NH. As it turns out, this will be the southernmost point of our trip.  At 9:30am, we lift the anchor and have a very nice sail the five miles north to Black Point.  This week-end is Easter and there is a fishing tournament, 2 cook-outs and lots of other activities here.  Lots of boats in the harbor.  At 12:30 we dingy to shore and then walk over to Regatta Point with Down Time and Saber Tooth) for a cook-out sponsored by the local Baptist Church.  Lots of food including 2 kinds of conch salad (regular and Caribbean (contains fruit)).  Mrs. Lillian Adderley was there (Lisa bought a straw purse from her the last time we were here).  Her husband, Lawrence, in addition to running Adderley’s Grocery, Cottage Rental, Golf Cart Rental, etc, is the local church pastor.

A good time was had by all, but everyone ate too much.

Saturday, April 4, 2015.  Sunny, 80 degrees, no clouds, wind SE 10-15. Today we trekked to another beach on the east side of the island to search for sea beans.  We were in the company of Saber Tooth and Down Time.  Nora (Saber Tooth) has been to the Bahamas several times and has yet to find a bean, so Lisa gave her one of the Sea Hearts that we found yesterday.  Connie (Down Time), on the other hand, has found many beans, and  today found one of the rare Hamburger Beans.  She gave it to Lisa, very nice.  We also found a "golf ball" bean, another Sea Heart, and another Starnut Palm bean.  A good day.

Dinner was a pot luck and "bring your own meat to grill" on Down Time.  It is a beautiful evening, and we watch the clouds build from the east.  We get back to Rhiannon just as the rain begins.  It is over in a few minutes and a full moon is out.  Lovely.

Sunday, April 4, 2015.  Easter. Weather is the same as yesterday.  Boring, but in a good way.  We attend Easter services at Gethsemane Baptist Church.  Bahamian church is very musical and the people are all dressed to the nines.  We will spend some time looking for another suitable conch shell and then have dinner ashore.  Tomorrow, we will begin the slow trip northward toward the Abacos.

Click here for pictures of the three stops at Black Point