Thursday, March 9, 2017

George Town 2017

George Town 2017
Elizabeth Harbor entrance (George Town)
Sunday, February 12, 2017. Beautiful morning, 70 degrees, wind East 5-10, puffy clouds.  We took the dingy and went through the cut between Stocking Island and Elizabeth Island with the dingy, following the folks from Endeavor (who we met in Bimini) and their son and his girlfriend.  On the sound side (east side) of the island it is very calm, but there are still 4 foot rollers coming from 3000 miles away, so there is “surge” that will toss you onto the shore (rocks) if you are not careful.  We snorkeled about ¼ miles of the reef and then came back through the cut to the beach.  We walked the length of the south beach of Stocking Island, but still no sea beans.  Because there are so many people here, there are quite nice walking paths all over the island.
Yesterday, we met a guy who had lost his dog.  They are staying in a house on Stocking Island and the dog (4 pound Maltese) named Stella apparently wandered off.  Today, everyone is looking for the dog as they hike the island and beaches.
We moved the boat across the harbor close to Kidd Cove (named for Captain Kidd) George Town so it will be more convenient to re-supply tomorrow.  The weather is supposed to be calm.  Majestic Phoenix and At Last came to play Mexican Train this evening.
Dinghy dock at Lake Victoria (Exuma Market)
2NM  23.30.40'N  075.45.76'W

Monday, February 13, 2017. The mail (supply) boat came in and the shelves at Exuma Market are full, so today we did our grocery shopping, dropped the propane bottle off to be refilled, and went to the bank.
Late in the day, we hear on the radio that Oriental Moon has spotted the missing Stella.  The owners hurried north to Hamburger Beach and were able to find the missing dog.  Everyone in the harbor is releaved!  The dog had wandered more than 2 miles.
Tonight we had dinner at Eddie’s Edgewater.  We sat with Lee and Sherry (Alesto 2).  At about 8:00pm, there was a “Rake and Scrape” band and dancing.  Lots of people here for that. A very nice evening!
Rake and Scrape Band at Eddie's Edgewater
Tuesday, February 14, 2017. Valentines Day. More chores today.  Back to the grocery – fresh meat in today. Made four trips to town and back with fresh water to fill the tanks from jerry cans.  The water is free on the dingy dock, but you have to haul it out to the boat. We got frozen fresh fish and lobster at Trainee’s Salon (she sells what her husband catches), pink Sands (Sands Radler with grapefruit) at the liquor store and returned a case of bottles.  Bahamas beer producers are now recycling their beer bottles.  There are almost none on the side of the road anymore.
We had lunch at The Driftwood CafĂ©.  Very nice.  Chicken pesto sandwich.  Very good and not expensive, and then walked the circle road around the harbor.  We picked u[p our laundry and I bought some fragrance and a fake rose at a stand on the side of the road.
I made steak for dinner (a rare treat) for us.  A beautiful sunset this evening. Majestic Phoenix and At Last came after dinner.  Joanne brought a card game called Skip-bo.  I think we all learned to play it by the time the night was over.

Wednesday, February 15, 2017. Clear, wind South 5-10, 75 degrees. We made two trips to town for fuel (diesel and gasoline), went to the grocery again, the bank, and picked up some soil from Jillian (who has a place by the Shell Station).  With the soil, Lisa was able to plant a hamburger bean she found that had been cracked open. She wrapped it in wet tissue and the thing is sprouting, so maybe we will get to see what sort of plant makes hamburger beans!

Phil (Majestic Phoenix) came over and we worked on his shells to turn them into conch horns.  Lisa made flowers (on barrettes) to give out this evening.  We had dinner at Peace and Plenty (barbeque, peas and rice, cold slaw, mac and cheese).  That was followed by a “Caribbean Band”.  There were probably about 100 people there.  Nice evening!

Thursday, February 16, 2017.  Very windy this morning, wind South 15-20 going Southwest later today.  Today we changed the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter on both the main engine and the generator.  We also changed the main Racor fuel filter that feeds both the engine and the generator.  We checked the belts and all fluids as well.  Main engine hours – 2734, generator hours – 1176.
We carried fuel from shore in jerry cans and filled Rhiannon (18 gallons). Then filled with water from the shore in jerry cans also. 
We talked to BTC again, and finally are able to “top off” our phone on line, which means we may be able to keep the same number when we come again.
We picked up our filled propane tank.

Friday, February 17, 2017. Another very nice morning.  Wind less than 10 and sunny with puffy clouds. We have been traveling (off and on) with Destiny IV US.  We met them at Cambridge Cay.  He is part of a contingent of boats from Montreal and they speak primarily French.  He has been harassing us that we discriminate against him because he is French Canadian.  He complains that we never call him on the radio. So, today we called him on the radio even tho’ he is anchored right next to us!
This afternoon at 3:00pm, there is a reception of the boaters at Peace and Plenty sponsored by Exumas Tourism.  Probably about 150 people attended. There was a cash bar, free food, and free non-alcoholic drinks.  There was entertainment by a dj, a local singer, and then a group of 12 year olds, who put on a fashion show and then did a couple of Bahamian dances.  Very talented.  Afterward, the dance instructor got about 18 of the women from the audience up to learn some dance steps.  Being a very good instructor, she made all the women look like they were good at the dance.  Quite a nice show!
Entertainment at The Cruisers Reception
Afterwards, we went to At Last and played some Mexican Train.  What a nice day!

Saturday, February 18, 2017. Another beautiful morning in paradise. This morning we are off to The Exuma Foundation Garden Show.  For those of you used to the garden shows in the Boston Convention Center or Madison Square Garden, this is not that!  All the same, there were plants for sale, home made food, vendors selling jewelry, bread and other baked goods, and a rummage sale.  There were children guiding tours around the grounds pointing out plants and describing their uses.  Our guide Abby, also introduced us to a 66 year old parrot named Loco and sang a duet with Loco of Amazing Grace.  Abby is 8.
We hear a boat named “Our Love” on the radio.  It reminds us of our boys because that’s what we called them when they were little.
Lisa did some “palm weaving (making knots)” with Ilene (Aftagla) and started a basket from the fronds she and Ilene had collected. She says it is much harder than she thought it would be.
We are making sure we talk with Pierre on Destiny IV US so he does not feel neglected.

Sunday, February 19, 2017. Wind Southeast at 15-20 this morning.  Cloudy, looks like rain.  We decide to move back across the harbor to Sand Dollar Beach for more protection.  Before we leave, I made on last run to town to the grocery, gasoline for the outboard and ice. 
11:00am We move over to Sand Dollar and anchor at Noon.
2 miles
It is still bumpy over here, but the wind is supposed to go Northeast and it should smooth out. 
At 1:00pm, we went to a “talk” by Cordell Rolle about medicinal use of native plants.  The subject matter was all intermingled with a history of the Bahamas, the people, and how they all got here.  Very interesting guy.
At 2:30pm Lisa met with Deb on Scheherazade to show her how to make pine needle baskets.  Lisa learned how to do this in Marathon in 2012 and in Brunswick this past January.  While all this was going on, there were lots of people just hanging out on the beach and in the bar.  Others were playing volleyball,  Mexican Train, Checkers, etc.  Lots of activity at Chat and Chill.
We met Stephen on Magic Daulphine.  He was introduced to us by Jillian, who was trying to broker some of Stephen’s art work.  He had with him some paintings he had done on the inside of coconut shells.  Beautiful stuff.  He is teaching the kids at the elementary school how to do this. Before the afternoon was over, Lisa had talked him into teaching a class tomorrow.
Dinner on board, Lisa made pasta.  Still very windy and bumpy in the anchorage.

2NM 23.30.69'N  075.44.59'W

Monday, February 20, 2017.  Looks like rain.  75 degrees, wind Southeast at 20.  Very bumpy here.  Lisa had her coconut painting class this morning and then we had lunch at Chat and Chill.  Majestic Phoenix and At Last went south on At Last about 5 miles to snorkel.  At Last’s son Joe came in yesterday for a week’s stay with his girlfriend.  All said the spot they chose to snorkel was very rough.
At 5:00pm, we all met at At Last for drinks and appetizers.
We heard from Down Time, Greenstone and Saber Tooth.  They are at Staniel Cay.  Hopefully, we will get to see them all soon.  Down Time is carrying stuff for us from the states (repair parts and yarn for Lisa).

Tuesday, February 21, 2017. Wind Southeast at 20.  It is supposed to keep increasing.  At Last and Majestic Phoenix went north on Majestic Phoenix to White Bay to see swimming pigs and to do some snorkeling.
The wind is supposed to go South and then West as another cold front approaches.  There is no protection from those wind directions where we are currently anchored.  Some boats are moving to the other side of the harbor, which would normally provide some protection, but they are predicting 50 knot potential winds. 
Lisa made her way over to Copper Penny to buy a cover-up/dress.  Very bumpy and wet on that dingy ride.
We decide to get the anchor up and head north 10 miles to the Marina at Emerald Bay.  It is at the Sandals Resort, it very protected and they have all the amenities.  We have not been plugged in for over a month, so it will be nice to top off the batteries, water, etc as well.  The anchor is up at 2:00pm.  Once outside the harbor, it is very rough, glad it only 11 miles.  We have just the fore sail out and are making better than 7 knots.  Once inside the marina basin, it is flat, but the wind is still building.  There are many people to help us onto the dock.  Nice!  5:00pm all secured.
Lisa coined a new term today – “fallables” – anything not stowed away properly becomes a “fallable” in rough seas, especially when the boat is pitching from side to side.  There are “fallables” all over the inside of the boat as we did not anticipate such a rough passage!

11NM today. 23.37.82'N  075.54.91'W

Wednesday, February 22, 2017.  Still very breezy,  storm clouds on the horizon.  Wind South 20-25. There are about 35 boats that moved here from George Town.  Many of the boats with Kids aboard or guests moved.  While the facility is very protected – a basin carved out of rock – it still experiences “surge”.  The entrance to the marina faces east and while small, is not protected by a sea wall.  The waves hitting the shore here have come 3000 miles and can be quite large, even if the wind is calm.  While the waves themselves cannot make it through the small entrance into the marina, the energy from the waves does – moving the water in the basin back and forth creating “surge”.  The boats move around on the docks.  Not dangerous, but suddenly the boat will be pushed away from its dock and then slammed back against it.  The docks are all very sturdy and float, so that is a plus.  The dockhands tell customers to tie the boats tight to the docks to prevent this.  The only other place I have experienced this phenomena is in San Francisco.  This also makes entering and leaving the marina an interesting exercise.
Lisa and I walked around the facility which includes The Marina at Emerald Bay, Grand Isle Resort and Golf Club  (where you can buy a 3 bedroom, 3 bath condo for US$1.4 million) and Sandals Resort.
The showers are great and the laundry has new machines and is free.  After a hot shower, we played Rummy 500 – I won for the first time in history – and at 5pm, we went to The Lighthouse Restaurant for dinner with Gene and Cherie (The Riot).  It was described to us as “Quaint, on the beach, good food and not expensive”.  Very accurate description – and they have real ice cream!  It is 3 miles north on Queen’s Highway.  Gene and Cherie are sharing a rental car with another boat.
Nice evening.

Thursday, February 23, 2017. Cloudy, rain this morning. Heavy wind and rain overnight.  Good decision to be here tied to a dock. 
10:00am Clearing, wind Southwest @15+.  Nice and flat here in the marina.  A southwest wind is a bad direction for the Exumas as there are few places that offer any protection.
We borrowed the car the Gene and Cherie are sharing and went to Darville Lumber, which is not only lumber, but hardware, bicycles, appliance and most other hard goods.  George Town version of Home Depot. We were able to find attachments for the Dremel and some other items which will help with our projects to convert conch shells to conch horns.  We delivered 2 to Mariposa yesterday.
We visited Prime Meats, which we have heard about but never visited.  Great selection of meats, including beef and sausages the make on site.  Some other groceries and dairy products and produce as well.  Prices are very reasonable.
We stopped on the way back to the marina for a walk on the beach.  Beautiful beaches here.
Lisa did some laundry and I cleaned our fenders (which really need it because of the way the surge pushes the boat against the dock).
Showers and wind in the late afternoon.  Dinner on board. Rotisserie chicken (from Prime Meats), sweet potatoes and fresh green beans).

Friday, February 24, 2017.  It is clear and very windy – West @ 20+.  We decide to wait another day to head back to George Town.  The George Town Cruising Regatta begins today and there are lots of games and activities including, volleyball, a Gilligan’s Island Costume Contest, several types of small boat races, 2 big boat races, a talent show and on and on.  We will wait until we return to get involved.
We spent most of the day bathing Rhiannon.  It has been quite a while since she has had a bath (when we left New Providence).
We had dinner at the Emerald Bay Bar and Grill, which is just off the resort property.  We had pizza, which is the best we have had in the Bahamas.  Showers and bed.



Saturday, February 25, 2017.  We cast off from the dock at 10:00am, determined to make it back to George Town in time for the Talent Show, which begins at Noon.  However, this is the Bahamas, and sometimes, start times are not strictly adhered to.  One of the best signs about this was seen at Ocean Cabin at Little Farmer’s Cay:
Our Hours
Most days we open at 9 or 10
Occasionally as early as 7
But some days as late as 12 or 1.
We close about 5 or 6
Or maybe 4 or 5.
Some days or afternoons
We aren’t here at all.
And lately we seem to be here
About all the time,
except when we are not.
Then we may be someplace else….
But we might be here then too.

The skies are clearing.  Wind Southwest @ 10-15 puffy clouds, 75 degrees. Abby Singer is headed north today, back home to “liquidate”.  They have been on the boat a year to see if that’s what they really wanted to do.  After a year, a family meeting and everyone agreed that they should “sell it all” and move aboard the boat.

12:10pm Anchor down in Kidd Cove, George Town.  Anchored next to At Last.  Majestic Phoenix nearby.

11.4NM  23°30.45’N  075°45.79’W

For more information on Emerald Bay Marina click on this link

We did not miss any of the Talent Show.  It did take an hour to get a hamburger and a beer.
Lisa wound up on the Ladies Tug-of-War Team (South) – and they won.  There was then a challenge, so they had to do it all over again – and they won again!
About 4:00pm, we were overheating and headed back to the boat.

Sunday, February 26, 2017.  During the day today, the wind began it shift to the east and we decided to move back over to Sand Dollar Beach.  We are anchored very close to where we were last week.  Slow Dance, Destiny IV US, Majestic Phoenix and At Last are here.  Spirit is over here somewhere, but we have not seen them yet.

2NM 23.30.70'N  075.44.56'W

Lisa found several conch shells which should make decent horns.  I began cutting and trimming the shells.  Lisa used epoxy to fill the holes made by the conch fisherman when they get the animal out.  Sometimes, they destroy the shell.

We heard from Down Time and they plan to be here on Friday.

I have managed to catch a cold (or something) and I am being miserable.  Stuffy head, chest congestion, cough, sore throat.  Sounds like a NyQuil commercial.

Monday, February 27, 2017. The weather is still questionable and the wind out of the Southeast at 15+. However, most of the events today are held in one of the protected “holes” (coves) on the island. Today are the small boat races, which includes sailing and rowing inflatable dinghies (which resist such attempts), paddle board races and the famous “Coconut Challenge”, which involves 4 people in a dingy using flippers for propulsion and trying to gather as many coconuts as possible.  Fun to watch.

Lisa obtained some ancient Chinese medication for my cold from one of the Canadian boats. It is herbal and actually seems to be helping.

Tuesday, February 28, 2017. It is windy and rain this morning, but by 9:00am it is clearing.  By 11:00am, the wind has dropped to Southeast @ 15 and it has turned into an almost perfect day for the first of the Big Boat Races.  Some of the entrants are die hard racers, others not so much. Other Goose went into irons (stopped dead, no wind in her sails) at each of the three marks (turns) on the course.  They even went backwards around one mark!

The after race party and awards was at Two Turtles in George Town.  I am still feeling poorly and it is along trek in a dinghy from where we are anchored to town, especially in this wind.

Lisa made chicken soup for dinner.  Really hit the spot!

Wednesday, March 1, 2017.  Lisa went to Chat and Chill this morning for another coconut painting session. Afterwards, there was the Boccie Ball Tournament, followed by volleyball, the Outcasts (ala Gilligan’s Island) Party, where best costume wins.  Free rum punch for all entrants.  She may be there awhile.  Our son Jeff calls this “Adult Day Camp”.
Paradise in a coconut
I am feeling better, but still not up to par, but the Chinese meds seem to be working.  Maybe they just boost your own immune system, but I am feeling much better.  I spent most of today working on this blog, talking to our insurance agent about our boat insurance and trying to set up a spot for Rhiannon to spend the summer.  I believe that insurance companies have gotten to the point where they would be just as happy if they did not have to insure anything.

Thursday, March 2, 2017.  Today was the “Around the Island” race for “Big Boats”.  This is the second “Big Boat” race and there are about 35 boats signed up.  It has turned into a beautiful day, bit like any sailboat race, it has staggered starts and the slowest boats go out last (so as not to clog up the race course), so it takes all day.  Today was also beach golf, where they set up an 18 hole golf course on the beach so the whole thing is one big sand trap.  Why would that be fun?  

Friday, March 3, 2017.  The wind has picked up significantly and there are showers in the forecast.  Heavy clouds around, but no rain yet.  We should be OK where we are anchored as most of the predicted wind is supposed to come from the east. 

Lisa heard today that her cousin, Fred, died suddenly.  He was also a good friend, and helped us recently with some of the renovations to the house. 

Because of the impending bad weather, they are trying to finish up all the events of the Cruising Regatta today.  There is fun volleyball, beach golf payoffs and the closing ceremony (where they pick the raffle winners) all today.  We attended the closing ceremonies and were surprised how many people were not there.  Apparently, it conflicted with Trivia Night at the St. Francis Yacht Club.  Got to make sure you get your priorities straight.

The weather is closing in, but the wind has not yet arrived.  We debated heading back to The Marina at Emerald Bay, but decide to wait.

Saturday, March 4, 2017.  We called our son James to wish him a Happy Birthday.  The weather is cloudy, but the wind is still relatively calm (calm before the storm).  Lisa talked to her family and the services for Fred will be on Wednesday, so we get online to make travel plans.  It’s not that easy to get last minute seats.  Many of the flights require an overnight stay somewhere.  We finally get her a flight out tomorrow.  We also arrange a water taxi to take her across the harbor (the weather is supposed to be really bad tomorrow), and a taxi to get her from the harbor to the airport.  Whew!  Once that is done, the weather starts to get worse. By evening, it is blowing East 25-30 and rain.  We actually picked the dingy up on the davits (where we carry it when traveling) so that we would not loose in in this wind.

Sunday, March 5, 2015.  As the sailors say “it is blowing stink”.  It is raining.  The wind is steady at 25-30.  We had a gust at 42 overnight.  The anchor is holding and nothing has been damaged.  Very rough even though we are in the lee of the island.  At 11:00am, Elvis’ Water Taxi shows up and we get Lisa safely aboard for the trip 2 miles across the harbor.  She took an extra set of dry clothes with her.  Good idea! Her flight gets delayed 4 hours!  She still managed to make it to Atlanta, get through US Customs and US Immigration, and then get to her connecting flight before they shut the door.  James picked her up at Manchester Airport and she was home in bed by 1:00am.


I stayed aboard – no where to go.  There is really no where to hide from a storm.  We are in the lee of Stocking Island, but the wind is consistently over 30 knots, hitting 40 occasionally.  The boat seems to be taking it in stride, but no place for the faint of heart.  I had to adjust the dingy a couple of times as waves would hit it and knock it out of position.  Several boats have dragged their anchors.  A couple of them had no one on board and intrepid sailors went out in their dinghy’s and managed to get an anchor to hold.  Luckily, none of these hit another boat, although there were near misses. Not sure what a person would do if they went ashore in a storm and came back and the boat was no longer there.  The word irresponsible comes to mind. Not much sleep.


No comments:

Post a Comment